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April 3, 2015

Against Aioli

It took me a while, but I eventually sussed out why I could take the Dog Haus raw ingredients and create something special, but was turned off by all of their pre-suggested menu items.
Namely: the suggestions they put forward were far too likely to feature an innocent sausage drowned in “aioli.” It’s not just the Dog Haus. I’ve been to a disturbing number of upscale burger joints that seem to think that aioli is what one puts on cheeseburgers. (Not to mention “brioche buns” — don’t get me started.) It is not. Traditionally, on burgers one puts ketchup, and on hot dogs and sausages one puts mustard, in addition to whatever other creative accoutrements one is inspired to add. But not aioli, a garlicky kind of mayonnaise meant for eggs or fish or something else light and delicate. I am here to inform the gourmet chefs of the world that hot dogs and hamburgers are not light and delicate foodstuffs. They are robust, coarse, energetic foods, and they require condiments that can stand up to the challenge. Something with a kick, with some life in it — not a greasy white emulsion of oil globules. | Sean Carroll

Posted by gerardvanderleun at April 3, 2015 3:23 PM. This is an entry on the sideblog of American Digest: Check it out.

Your Say

One of our favorite dishes is Bacon Cheeseburger Macaroni. You make the Mac n cheese however you like, but you brown some nice sized chunks of beef, drain them, toss them with ketchup and dill pickle relish into the macaroni and add bacon pieces. No aioli involved. A most delicious meal.

Posted by: Mother Effingby [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 3, 2015 3:56 PM

My grilled burgers are legendary.

Fistfights have broken out over them.

Enormous wagers have been won and lost over them.

They've rekindled flames and caused divorce decrees and many a child have been conceived after their consumption.

Women have swooned.

I'm the butchers best friend and no one has ever walked away from the table less than completely stuffed.

A perfect melding of art and science, emotion and logic, fact and fiction, creating my burgers starts the day before, the flavor lasts til the day after, and the memory forever more.

You can't buy burgers like I create but you can have one for free if you know the secret handshake and your timing is exactly right.

Just aim your snoot skyward and let it lead you to epicurean delights yet realized.

Posted by: ghostsniper [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 3, 2015 6:19 PM

Poor Sean, stuck in California as it reverts to desert and the Chefs resort to the blackest of magic to raise the spirits of the dead aioli.

Posted by: chuck [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 3, 2015 7:43 PM

Aoli is just mayonnaise, period. They usually add garlic or something to it, but its just mayo with a tuxedo on. People who use that in their recipie descriptions are excessively precious and pretentious, and should be avoided. They serve a tenth as much food as you want on square plates with a squiggle of sauce and charge twice as much. They use words like "artisinal" and "sustainable" a lot when describing lettuce. I can't stand that kind of cooking and no chef worth the name should.

Posted by: Christopher Taylor [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 4, 2015 7:21 AM

He said "square plates" and "squiggle of sauce". LOL

Posted by: ghostsniper [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 4, 2015 8:36 AM

I'm of the Jimmy Buffet persuasion myself: lettuce, tomato, Heinz 57 (or A-1), done medium on a sesame seed or plain bun, cheddar or American cheese on top, fries and dill pickle on the side. In the absence of either of the steak sauces, ketchup and mustard do just fine. But no aioli, artisanal or otherwise.

Posted by: waltj [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 4, 2015 9:45 AM

Sorry, ghost, sliders from White Castle are the best hamburgers in the universe.

Posted by: chasmatic [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 5, 2015 6:39 AM

A dollop of aioli on my dog's tip,
for her pleasure as it slides twixt tongue an' lip,
That dog provides it's own mustard, as
she enjoys the moment and the endeavor,
to linger and extract the flavor,to savor forever

Posted by: Vermont Woodchuck [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 5, 2015 8:27 AM

While not exactly agreeing with Chas, I have to say that I've packed away my share of White Castles (and their southern equivalent, Krystal burgers) over the years. I've always liked them as road food. The most I ever downed in one sitting was 12. Six is my limit now. Ah, to be young again.

Posted by: waltj [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 5, 2015 12:15 PM

I know there are purists who insist you should not put ketchup on any hotdog, but if you mix in a health dose of hot curry powder then ketchup becomes the perfect condiment for almost any type of sausage-on-a-bun.

Posted by: ThomasD [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 5, 2015 8:36 PM

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